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A Season For Every Food

Bill Telepan believes that for chefs like him, the cliche "You are what you eat" should be altered to "We are what we cook."

The dishes he and his colleagues serve at restaurants or prepare for friends and family sum up who they are, he believes.

In his cookbook "Inspired by Ingredients" he writes, "Our palates are formed in childhood, refined in cooking school, honed, and personalized as we work for other chefs and dine in other restaurants, and finally shared with the public when we begin composing menus in our own restaurants."

Here are his recipes from Thursday's The Early Show.


ROASTED LOIN OF VEAL WITH PORCINI, ARTICHOKES, AND ROASTED GARLIC
Serves 4

VEAL

2 pounds boneless veal loin, cut into 4 portions
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup canola or other vegetable oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 sprig thyme

1. Preheat the oven to 450ºF.

2. Season the veal on all sides with salt and pepper. Warm the oil in an ovenproof sauté pan set over high heat, add the veal, and sear for 2 minutes on one side until nicely browned. Flip the veal over and sear for another 2 minutes until nicely browned. Pour off the oil from the pan and add the butter. As soon as the butter is browned and foamy, add the thyme, turn the veal 90 degrees, and place in the oven for 3 minutes. Flip the veal over and cook for 3 minutes more. Let rest.

ARTICHOKES AND PORCINI

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 large artichoke hearts, 1 inch of the
stem left on, each cut into four to five
1/2-inch slices
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup Vegetable Stock
4 ounces porcini mushrooms, each cut
into four 1/3-inch slices
1 tablespoon roasted garlic puree
1/2 cup Brown Chicken Stock
3 tablespoons canola or other
vegetable oil

1 onion, roughly chopped into
small pieces
1 carrot, roughly chopped into
small pieces
10 pounds chicken wings
1 head garlic, split
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 sprigs thyme
2 sprigs parsley

1. Preheat the oven to 450ºF.
2. Put the chicken wings in a roasting pan and roast, stirring occasionally, until dark golden brown, about 2 hours.
3. Warm the oil in a 12-quart stockpot set over medium-low heat. Add the onion and carrot and sauté until browned, about 20 minutes. Add the chicken wings, garlic, peppercorns, thyme, parsley, and water to cover by 2 inches.
4. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and let simmer for 8 hours or overnight, skimming any impurities that rise to the surface. Let cool at room temperature and skim off any fat that rises to the surface while the stock rests. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Transfer to a clean pot and gently boil until reduced to 4 cups. Strain, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 2 months.

2 tablespoons butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley

1. Warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large pan set over medium-high heat. Add the artichokes and cook until golden brown on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn them over and brown for 1 minute more, then season with salt and pepper. Add 1/4 cup of the vegetable stock, cover, and let simmer for 2 minutes, then remove the cover and reduce until glazed, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, fill a bowl with ice and set another bowl on top of it. When the artichokes are done, transfer them to the top bowl and let chill.

2. Repeat Step 1, using the porcini, adding them to the artichokes to chill.

3. Warm the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in the same sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the roasted garlic puree and cook until lightly browned, 1 minute. Return the artichoke and porcini to the pan, add the chicken stock, and bring to a boil over high heat. Let boil for 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, and stir in the butter, lemon, and parsley. Taste and adjust seasoning.

POTATO PUREE AND ASSEMBLY

1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, peeled
and quartered
1/2 cup cream
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, cut into
small pieces
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 450ºF.
2. Place the potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water. Salt the water, bring the water to a boil over high heat, and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain the potatoes and transfer to a cookie sheet. Bake in the oven until dry, about 5 minutes.

3. Place the cream in a sauté pan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat

4. Add the butter, whisk for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and finish whisking in the butter. Pass the potatoes through a food mill or ricer, mix in the cream and butter, and season with salt and pepper.

5. Divide the potato puree among four warm plates. Using a slotted spoon, place the porcini and artichokes on top of the potatoes. Slice each veal portion into 4 or 5 slices and fan the veal around the edge, then drizzle with the sauce. Serve at once.

Wine
A medium-bodied sangiovese would pair well with the veal and porcini flavors. Try the Chianti Classico from a small producer in Tuscany named Casaloste.

TO PREPARE ARTICHOKE HEARTS
Remove all the leaves down to the soft cone-shaped lightly yellow leaves. Cut around the base of these leaves with a paring knife and remove them. Remove the choke with a spoon or melon baler. Rub the exposed flesh with half a lemon to prevent browning. Peel the tough skin from the outside of the heart with a vegetable peeler or paring knife, working around the top and down the stem, rubbing periodically with the lemon. Reserve the prepared hearts in water acidulated with lemon juice.

CANDY CANE BEET SALAD
Serves 4

1/4 cup Basic Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
1/2 cup coarsely grated black radish
4 medium candy cane beets, roasted and cooled
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 bunch watercress (about 6 ounces), stems trimmed
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1. In a bowl, mix the vinaigrette with the radish and let sit for 1 hour.

2. Peel and cut the beets into 1/3-inch slices. Arrange the slices in an overlapping circle on four plates. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Toss the radish with the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the dressed radish over the beets. Drizzle the watercress with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and top the radish with it. Serve.

Basic Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Whisk together the lemon juice, vinegar, and mustard. Season with salt and pepper. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while continuing to whisk. Taste and adjust seasoning.

PUMPKIN PANCAKES WITH CANDIED WALNUTS AND ORANGE-MAPLE SYRUP
SERVES 4

CANDIED WALNUTS

1 egg white
1/4 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/4 cup sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg white until foamy. Add the orange zest and toss the walnut pieces into the egg white mixture. Sprinkle in the sugar, mixing as you go.

3. Turn the nuts out onto the lined baking sheet and spread them out into a single layer. Bake for 8 minutes, then stir the nuts around to ensure both an even toasting and an even sugar coating. Return the sheet to the oven and bake for another 5 to 6 minutes. The nuts should be toasted, but the sugar should not be caramelized. Remove the sheet from the oven.

4. Lay a fresh sheet of parchment paper on the counter. Remove the nuts from the baking sheet, scraping if necessary, and leave them on the parchment to cool. Stir occasionally to separate them. These can be made up to 5 days in advance and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.

ORANGE-MAPLE SYRUP

1 cup Grade A maple syrup
(see page 208)
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
Juice of 1/2 orange

Put the syrup, butter, and juice in a small pot and warm over medium heat. Stir together and set aside. This can be made up to 24 hours in advance and kept, covered, in the refrigerator.

PUMPKIN PANCAKES

3/4 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Generous pinch of salt
11/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1 whole egg plus 1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons Grade A maple syrup
1 cup milk
11/2 cups canned pumpkin or roasted pumpkin (1. Preheat the oven to 450ºF. 2. Remove the tops of the pumpkins by cutting a circle into the top of each pumpkin at an angle with a paring knife. Scoop out the pulp and seeds with a spoon. Put the pumpkins and tops in a pan. Pour 1/2 inch of water around them, season with salt and pepper, and cover with aluminum foil. Bake until tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool enough to touch, then cut a little "window," about 2 inches square, into one side of each pumpkin, starting from the top.)
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
Vanilla ice cream, optional

1. Preheat the oven to 250ºF.

2. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and pumpkin pie spice. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and yolk with the maple syrup, then whisk in the milk. Pour the liquid mixture over the dry ingredients, add the pumpkin, and stir to combine. Set an ovenproof plate or a parchment-lined sheet in the oven.

3. Heat a wide nonstick pan over medium-low heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter. As soon as the butter melts and begins to foam, ladle in four 3-inch pancakes. For perfect circles, you can use pancake rings, but lightly swirling the batter with the underside of the ladle will work just as well. Cook the pancakes for 4 minutes, flip them, and cook for another minute or so. Transfer the pancakes to the plate in the oven to keep them warm, stacking the batch in a neat little pile. Repeat with the remaining butter and batter.

4. To serve, place a stack of pancakes in the center of each of four plates. Top with warm syrup and generously sprinkle with nuts. If you like, add a scoop of vanilla ice cream to each serving.

Wine
The caramel and maple notes need a dessert wine with those same flavors, such as a sticky from Australia's Rutherglen region, known for their fantastic and good-value sweet muscats. Try Campbell's Rutherglen Muscat.

CHILLED SHRIMP WITH AN AUTUMN SLAW
Serves 4

AUTUMN COLESLAW

2 cups green cabbage, cut into thin ribbons
11/2 teaspoons salt
11/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 cup grated kohirbi
1/4 cup grapeseed or other vegetable oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons apple cider
1 cup peeled, grated green apple
Freshly ground black pepper

Place the cabbage in a bowl, sprinkle with the salt, and let sit for 1 hour. Squeeze out the excess liquid with your hands, wipe out the bowl, and return the cabbage to the bowl. Add the remaining ingredients, toss, and let marinate for 1 hour while you prepare the shrimp. (This slaw can be made up to 2 days in advance and kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)

POACHED SHRIMP AND ASSEMBLY

1/3 cup white wine vinegar
1/3 cup salt
16 to 20 jumbo shrimp, heads removed

1. In a large pot bring 4 quarts water to a roling boil over high heat. Add the vinegar and salt. When the water returns to a rolling boil, add the shrimp, lower the heat, and poach for 2 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let sit until the water cools to room temperature. Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon, place them in a bowl, cover, and chill in the refrigerator until cold.

2. Peel the shrimp, leaving the last joint and tail intact. Devein by cutting along the back, removing the dark vein.

3. To serve, mound some of the slaw in the center of each of four dinner plates. Arrange the shrimp around the slaw.

Wine
A light, fresh sparkling wine would do nicely with this dish. Try a prosecco from the Veneto region in Italy, such as the latest vintage of Bisol Crede Prosecco.

GRATING KOHLRABI
Kohlrabi must be peeled before it can be grated. Because it has a thick skin, a vegetable peeler may not do the trick; use a paring knife. If you are not skilled at turning a vegetable in one hand while holding the knife in the other, use a larger knife to cut off the skin and form the kohlrabi into a naked square. You may waste a bit of the root, but it's a small price to pay for your safety.

SPICY CARROTS
Serves 4 to 6

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 large onion, julienned
6 cloves garlic, julienned
Salt
3 stalks celery, peeled and cut on the
diagonal into 1/4-inch pieces (1 cup)
8 sun-dried tomatoes, cut into thin strips
8 pepperoncini peppers, seeds removed from 2, cut into thin strips
11/2 pounds multicolored carrots
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
1/2 cup Vegetable Stock

1. Warm the olive oil in a sauté pan with a lid over medium-low heat. Add the onion, garlic, and a pinch of salt, cover the pan, and cook for 3 minutes. Add the celery and another pinch of salt, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cover, and soften for 2 minutes. Add the peppers, cover, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool.

2. Cut the carrots into oblique 1-inch segments by cutting on the bias and then rotating the carrot 180 degrees before cutting again, or simply cut into 1-inch pieces.

3. Melt the butter in a large sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the carrots, season with salt, and cook without browning for 6 minutes. Add the stock and cook, uncovered, over medium-high heat until the carrots are al dente and the liquid forms a glaze, about 7 minutes.

4. Add the pepperoncini mixture to the pan, toss, taste, and adjust seasoning.

5. To serve, transfer the carrots to a bowl and present family style in the center of the table.

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